The Citadel of Salah El Din: Cairo’s Timeless Fortress

Salah El Din Citadel, also known as the Cairo Citadel, It’s a popular tourist attraction in Cairo, Egypt, offering a range of tours that allow visitors to explore its rich history and architectural significance. Several tour operators provide guided experiences, including Egypt Tours Portal, which offers private vacation packages and day tours that include the Citadel along with other historical attractions

Perched high on the Mokattam Hills, overlooking the heart of Cairo, the Citadel of Salah El Din commands a strategic position that has shaped Egyptian history for centuries. This formidable fortress, an ambitious military endeavor of its time, offers breathtaking panoramic views of the sprawling city, hinting at its past power and foresight.

Built on a strategic promontory beneath the Mokattam Hills, the Citadel possessed a natural defense against invaders. This prime location cemented its role as the nerve center of Egyptian rule for hundreds of years, until the 19th century. Throughout its long history, the Citadel underwent constant evolution, with modifications and additions reflecting the changing rulers and times. Because of this, piecing together its original design and subsequent alterations presents a fascinating challenge for historians.

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The Citadel’s story unfolds across three key construction periods: the 12th-century Ayyubid era, initiated by the legendary Saladin; the 14th-century Mamluk period under al-Nasir Muhammad; and a significant 19th-century transformation led by Muhammad Ali. However, in 1874, the Citadel’s role as the seat of government shifted when Egypt’s ruler, Khedive Ismail, moved to the newly built Abdin Palace in downtown Cairo. Despite its imposing defenses, the Citadel remarkably never faced a direct siege.

 

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Cairo Citadel

A powerful figure of Kurdish descent, Saladin rose to become the first sultan of Egypt and Syria, establishing the influential Ayyubid dynasty. Revered as a pivotal leader during the tumultuous Third Crusade, he spearheaded the Muslim forces against the Crusader states in the Levant. Under his strong rule, the Ayyubid empire flourished, stretching across vast territories encompassing Egypt, Syria, Upper Mesopotamia, the Hejaz, Yemen, and Nubia.

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Cairo Citadel

Today, the fortress complex divides into two main sections: the Northern Enclosure, now home to the National Military Museum, and the Southern Enclosure, dominated by the magnificent Mosque of Muhammad Ali. Historically, the Northern Enclosure housed military barracks, while the Southern Enclosure served as the sultan’s private residence. A lower, western enclosure once contained the Mamluk royal stables. However, Muhammad Ali Pasha’s extensive 19th-century renovations throughout the Citadel blurred these original functional distinctions, resulting in a diverse range of buildings with varying purposes.

Adjoining the Citadel’s west and southwest lies a vast open area, known to historians as the “hippodrome” or the Maydan (“plaza” or “square”). For centuries, this expansive space served as a crucial training ground, particularly for cavalry, and a grand venue for military parades. Its original outline is still visible in the layout of the surrounding streets, notably Salah ad-Din Street.

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Cairo Citadel

At the northern end of the hippodrome stood another square, once called Rumayla Square (Maydan/Midan Rumayla) and now known as Salah al-Din Square (Midan Salah Ad-Din) or Citadel Square (Midan al-Qal’a). Initially a marketplace for horses due to its proximity to the royal stables, this square also served as an official setting for royal and religious ceremonies. Today, a large roundabout occupies the space, flanked by the impressive mosques of Sultan Hassan and al-Rifa’i.

The Citadel’s story began with Salah al-Din (Saladin), the Kurdish Ayyubid leader, who initiated its construction between 1176 and 1183 CE. His vision had two primary goals: to protect Cairo from potential Crusader attacks and to establish a secure administrative center for his new regime. This ambitious project mirrored the fortified citadels found in various Syrian cities like Damascus and Aleppo, places Saladin knew well. Simultaneously, Saladin undertook the immense task of building a formidable wall encircling both Cairo and Fustat, the neighboring former capital.

Saladin imagined this encompassing wall, stretching approximately 20 kilometers, as a unifying defense for the two cities, allowing for joint protection. While the Citadel’s core was completed by 1183–1184, the envisioned wall, meant to be Cairo’s main line of defense, remained under construction long after Saladin’s death, with remnants of its incomplete state still visible as late as 1238. Despite its partial construction, the full wall was never realized.

Baha al-Din Qaraqush, Saladin’s trusted chief eunuch and aide, oversaw the Citadel’s construction. The majority of the structure was built using limestone quarried from the adjacent Muqattam Hills, along with materials taken from minor pyramids in Giza and Abusir. The workforce largely consisted of Christian prisoners of war captured during Saladin’s campaigns against the Crusaders. Initially, the fortress primarily comprised what we now recognize as the Northern Enclosure, although later modifications altered some of its original walls. The only remaining structure from the original design is the Bab al-Mudarraj Gate, located in the northern section.

The Citadel houses several significant mosques and museums, offering glimpses into Egypt’s rich history and culture. These include:

This iconic mosque, built between 1830 and 1848 and completed in 1857, stands within the Southern Enclosure and welcomes visitors today. Designed by the Turkish architect Yusuf Bushnak, it draws inspiration from the Sultan Ahmed Mosque in Istanbul. Muhammad Ali Pasha’s final resting place is a Carrara marble tomb within the mosque’s courtyard, his remains moved here in 1857.

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Dating back to 1318 during the early Bahri Mamluk period, this mosque served as the Citadel’s royal mosque, where Cairo’s sultans gathered for Friday prayers. It retains its 14th-century hypostyle structure, despite numerous repairs and partial restoration of its original decorations. Located in the Southern Enclosure, it is open to the public.

Constructed in 1528, this is one of the Citadel’s oldest Ottoman-style mosques, showcasing classic 16th-century Ottoman architectural features. Situated in the Northern Enclosure, it replaced the earlier Mosque of Sidi Sariyah. The tomb of Sidi Sariyah, dating back to 1140 CE, is preserved within this mosque.

Tucked behind the main western gate, Bab al-Azab, lies this lesser-known mosque. Named after the Ottoman military regiments once stationed here, it was commissioned by Mamluk amir Ahmad Katkhuda in 1697. While its exact origins are debated, it may incorporate an earlier Mamluk religious structure. Its Ottoman-style minaret remains visible, although the mosque is not open to the public.

Also known as the Bijou Palace, this palace was commissioned by Muhammad Ali Pasha in 1814. Crafted by artisans from around the world, it displays a rich mix of architectural styles. Inside, visitors can see Muhammad Ali’s grand reception hall, adorned with a magnificent chandelier, and the ornate throne gifted to him by the King of Italy.

Opened in 1983, this museum houses a unique collection of royal carriages from the times of Khedive Ismail to King Farouk. Alongside these carriages, the museum displays various antique artifacts related to their history.

Dedicated to Egypt’s military history, this museum showcases the nation’s armed forces. Established in 1937 and relocated to the Citadel’s historic Harem Palace, it preserves and displays artifacts representing Egypt’s military heritage.

Located north of the Bab al-‘Alam gate, offering stunning city views, the Police Museum resides in the Citadel’s former prison. This museum offers insights into significant political assassinations and displays related weapons, providing a sobering look at law enforcement and justice.

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